Dolceacqua is a medieval hilltop village in the far west of Liguria, close to the Mediterranean sea and the French border. This is frontier wine country, where history, culture, gastronomy and viticulture meet, collide and reshape. The signature grape, Rossese, began life in France a few hundred years ago as Tibouren (you'll still find it in St Tropez pinks and reds).
Altavia is name-checked in Wine Grapes as one of the top producers of Rossese. Their vineyards date back to the 1970s, and as well as Rossese they dabble in southern French and other Ligurian grapes, such as Syrah, Carignano and a Vermentino plus Viognier blend (called Noname because they literally couldn't think of a name). There's even a stonkingly obscure bottling of Touriga Nacional, which now been banned because the Portuguese grape isn't permitted under the local rules. Crazy, yes, but sometimes the best things in life just are.